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#1 Ah Mad Lad

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Posted 11 September 2006 - 12:51 AM

Post pictures of your filed down bump keys here. If you have corresponding originals include them in the same photo lined up to the filed down keys. Make sure to label the keys using paint or whatever. Also make sure the lighting is good and it is big enough to see the details of the key.

#2 Customer Support

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Posted 11 September 2006 - 05:30 AM

Post pictures of your filed down bump keys here. If you have corresponding originals include them in the same photo lined up to the filed down keys. Make sure to label the keys using paint or whatever. Also make sure the lighting is good and it is big enough to see the details of the key.


Take a peek through the forum.. people have posted pictures of their keys.

James K. - Lead Support
For Order specific questions please use the 'contact us' link at the top of BumpKey.US


#3 Ah Mad Lad

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Posted 11 September 2006 - 12:42 PM

It's just an idea, but I think it would be nice to have a thread specifically for photos so the board isn't cluttered and users that want to compare their key to other keys can do it in one shot by clicking on this thread.

#4 Ah Mad Lad

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Posted 14 September 2006 - 05:09 PM

Here is my 5-Key Set of Common Bump Keys.

I have not filed down the tips or shoulders.

These are not from BumpKey.us

As far as I know these keys are cut correctly but if anyone sees any mistakes please tell me so I can remove the picture.

So, this is what your keys should look like before filing.
If someone could post similar photos of bump keys after being filed correctly.


http://www.parazz.com/photos/36011305823_4848.jpg

http://www.parazz.com/photos/77432898726_4848.jpg

http://www.parazz.com/photos/46059838762_4848.jpg

http://www.parazz.com/photos/76000775441_4848.jpg

http://www.parazz.com/photos/09502771571_4848.jpg

http://www.parazz.com/photos/02998199235_4848.jpg

These aren't great pictures, but they're descent enough to see the grooves. If anyone else has photos please post them.

#5 ropeadope

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Posted 27 October 2006 - 07:31 PM

I think this is a good idea for a thread.

By the way, bumpkey.us could use some better key pictures.

#6 naturallite7

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Posted 30 October 2006 - 09:07 PM

Can someone post the "skeleton key" that I have read about? Thanks in advance.

#7 Customer Support

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Posted 30 October 2006 - 09:11 PM

Can someone post the "skeleton key" that I have read about? Thanks in advance.


This key is practically visually identical to the 6 Pin SC4. The huge difference is that the side groove... the key path... is alot bigger allowing it to fit into MANY different types of locks.
I'll take some pictures to see if we can show this bigger pathway, but I doubt it will.

James K. - Lead Support
For Order specific questions please use the 'contact us' link at the top of BumpKey.US


#8 vicvelcro

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Posted 06 March 2008 - 01:34 AM

Don't have my keys with me. I'm uh mobile and in the field, I suppose.

Being an extreme kind of person, I like to see just how much abuse and wear things can tolerate and still be able to function. So, I bought this lock for 17 U.S. Dollars plus tax. Then proceeded to hate the thing like it had made a false move on my little sister.

Anyhow currently I am working with the following:

Both of these are for the m3 (em cubed).



On the left is the original key for a black and decker deadbolt. It's a 5 pin kwikset clone.

Center key is the second key in the set. I filed it by hand from a vision in my mind's eye. Then brutalized, softened up by heat, driven over, and then put to use.

On the right is a novelty KW1 blank purchased from Wal Fart then filed by hand. This is a comparison against the key in the middle. Plus it won't be likely to arouse suspicion on my keyring. The pattern seems to break up the profile when looked at in real life.



Guess which key works most easily?

See answer concealed on the line below -
The one in the middle. The brutalized and pummeled twin.

My theory here is that the tolerance of the black and decker lock is quite forgiving, the key was durable enough that when created would survive the abuse intact due to the metalurgy of the key (nickel brass) and a consistent technique for using the KW1s.


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#9 deadstealth

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Posted 17 March 2008 - 01:42 PM

is this the minimal movement pic thread with no pics? (all but vicvel's pic on this thread are dead)


there are PLENTY of pull out method key pics...but you could just look at the keys in the bumpkey.us store for that. When searching this forum for actual PICS (not paintshop made bs) of minimal movement keys there are hardly any. Ive searched this forum many times over the past 6 months and actual pics of filed down minimal movement keys are very hard to find. (it was hard enough just to find out that you have to file BOTH shoulders and the tip - toool says you dont need to file the tip though...) If you do happen to find a pic or 2 of a minimal movement key, its going to be a kw1, whether it be on youtube, ezpicking, lp101, or this site. and not any of the other common keys (sc1, m1, m10, sc20)

This is definatly a needed thread. Thanks for starting it. Now someone PLEASE post some pics so we know wtf were supposed to be filing...

#10 Customer Support

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Posted 17 March 2008 - 02:19 PM

I'd like to make a side note about NOT filling the tip of a key...
if you choose to not file the tip you may run into a problem when the tip hits the back plate of the lock.

James K. - Lead Support
For Order specific questions please use the 'contact us' link at the top of BumpKey.US


#11 vicvelcro

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Posted 17 March 2008 - 06:56 PM

is this the minimal movement pic thread with no pics? (all but vicvel's pic on this thread are dead)

...

Ive searched this forum many times over the past 6 months and actual pics of filed down minimal movement keys are very hard to find. (it was hard enough just to find out that you have to file BOTH shoulders and the tip - toool says you dont need to file the tip though...) If you do happen to find a pic or 2 of a minimal movement key, its going to be a kw1, whether it be on youtube, ezpicking, lp101, or this site. and not any of the other common keys (sc1, m1, m10, sc20)

This is definatly a needed thread. Thanks for starting it. Now someone PLEASE post some pics so we know wtf were supposed to be filing...




Give me some time to get back to HQ, and I'll actually scan my existing m3 set. My complete set of m3's. Might not have one or two of the units you are specifically interested in, but should make a fair example of the principle.

As a note, I strongly agree with SlickJ. Regardless of what toool has to say, it is a very good idea to snub the nose of your m3 units. If your unit impacts the rear of the lock from the inside, you may experience a catastrophic failure of the assembly. You could also lose your unit. If it breaks, you might have difficulty removing it.

I am guessing that the Best locks would be most commonly at risk, in this regard. But there are others.
If you are not the intended recipient of this message you are notified that you must not use, disseminate, copy it in any form or
take any action in reliance on it.

All warnings about tools, batteries, and electricity apply. If you want to get hurt you'll find a way.

The 'powers that be' rely on 99% of us knowing nothing, and the last 1% being too scared to talk about it.

DO NOT: Fold, Spindle, or Mutilate this electronic communication.

#12 NDE

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Posted 25 August 2009 - 06:57 PM

I hate to necropost but I have to comment. The keys pictured in the first post will NOT work on most kwikset locks that are factory pinned. The reason is that the flats on the keys in the first post are not wide enough to allow factory pins to seat on the root of the cut on the key. The flat widths for a kwikset and clones should be .090" wide to allow the pin to sit all the way down on the cut.

Now the keys in the first post might work on locks that have been repinned with a LAB or other type of universal pin kit as these kits use a sharp point on the end of the pins that sit on the root cut of the key. So the narrow flats on the keys in the first post may be wide enough to work with aftermarket universal pins. This is something you need to be sure of before filing your home made bump keys.

I am trying to think of where you can find the flat width required for cuts on different brands of locks. I know you can look at some of the replacement code cutter wheels available for say the HPC 1200 code machine for different lock types. I'm not sure if the Framon space and depth manual has proper flat measurements for different locks and different code series. I'll dig around and see where one can find proper information for cutting their own keys without a code machine.

~NDE~

#13 xcaliber

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Posted 03 January 2014 - 06:06 AM

Mine looks something like this:

 

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll35/SFIC_WOT/A1/schlagebumpy.jpg


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#14 LAlocksport

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Posted 06 January 2014 - 05:20 AM

Mine looks something like this:

 

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll35/SFIC_WOT/A1/schlagebumpy.jpg

This Schlage bump key sure looks fine. As long as it gets the job done they are all good looking :)



#15 Coleson

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Posted 11 January 2014 - 03:53 AM

I'd like to make a side note about NOT filling the tip of a key...
if you choose to not file the tip you may run into a problem when the tip hits the back plate of the lock.

I've been skimming on the threads and their contents until I stumbled on this post. This is the first time I've heard of this so even when the post is very old, I'm curious as what exactly happens in the locks. I usually fill the tip of the key thinking that it will be more effective and sometimes it works.