*Bump Keys are ON SALE*
Bumping without a Bump Key
Posted 19 May 2007 - 02:20 PM
I tried it on several other padlocks: All worked.
Also, I found a different way of bumping a key. No percussion is required. The 1 pin pull-out method method is used, but instead of a bludgeon, the key is gripped between the fingers and snapped into the hole. It seems to work just as good and there is not mushrooming on the key or denting on the lock. I'll have some videos and pictures up later.
Posted 20 May 2007 - 08:14 AM
Posted 20 May 2007 - 09:04 PM
Certain locks are prone to extremely low-impact bumping, with a key that is cut correctly. I have Yale, Arrow and Kwikset keys that will literally open the lock by "snapping" the key in as you suggest, although from your description it seems like you may be on to something different.
Looking forward to a more detailed description/pictures/videos!
Posted 21 May 2007 - 09:35 PM
Just a little bit of information: The key is a duplicate of some Masterlock key that I had laying around and hadn't gotten to filing yet. It's cheap Home Depot variety. (Axxess) The locks that I use in the videos are an M1 and M3 Masterlock. 4 pins I'm pretty sure. I've also used it to bump 2 other padlocks. One and unidentifiable 3/4 pin and another Masterlock that was REALLY rusty.
If I didn't know any better, I would say that the locks were master-keyed to my key, but they are all from public places with a large enough distance between them to make that unlikely. Also, the key won't open them outright.
In the video I show myself using a few of the more conventional methods, and then the snapping. The snap is really hard to see because there is virtually no movement, but still far more that I would have with a minimal movement key. ( The key isn't filed for MM anyway...) From what I've tested, the snap seems to work best in locks that aren't incredibly smooth, (As there is no resistance) but aren't unrealistically gummy. (Because you just can't get enough force with your fingers to snap it in and torque at the same time!)
Hope this clarifies a little bit.
Posted 23 May 2007 - 03:49 PM
I could tell however that it was as you described... cut variably, and not necessarily to the lowest depth.
It seems to me that in your experimentation you've been lucky in finding locks that work with that key. I don't mean that they're master keyed to the lock, or what have you... just that none of the pins in any of the locks that you've tried have been lower than the cuts on your key.
The method of applying heavy tension and pushing the key in is new to me, although in theory it could work... as (multiple) top pin(s) is/are pushed above the shearline, the plug turns enough such that the bottom pin(s) can't cross it easily. The very light pressure on the key isn't anything new... a very well cut bump key will do that. But that with the tension is weird... but apparently it works in some cases.
Anyone else have any ideas?
And also, a picture of this magic snap key, s'il vous plait.
Posted 24 May 2007 - 06:13 AM
I tried to get a good picture, but it was difficult. The area where the key is large enough to see clearly is out of the focusing range of my camera. I might be able to use another, more expensive one with a better lens, bu that will have to wait until tonight at the earliest.
Also, I made another movie, this time with music. (Which, upon viewing, I realized didn't translate well. My subwoofer sounds far too loud. Oh well.)
Snap Bumping II
In it I do the snap bumping and another technique that I have thus far discovered. From what I can tell, it works similar to raking with keys. Of course, I gave it the moniker of "the wiggle." Hopefully this will let you see what is going on even better.
Posted 25 May 2007 - 07:10 PM
Although, it kind of looks like he isn't even turning the key, which draws from the credibility.
Posted 26 May 2007 - 12:34 PM
Posted 27 May 2007 - 12:05 AM
As for your key, the slopes are all conducive to bumping, but the depths are not... find a lock that takes a lower cut for one of the back cuts... if that works, you're on to something!
Posted 05 June 2007 - 12:59 AM
with my bump key (shown in my first post, NOT the one made for pull-out), I can take the key out one click, then just push it in as slowly as i want, while putting torque on it and it opens the lock. then i can re-lock it, and while torqueing it, pull it out one notch and it opens the lock.
This is my take on it, after examining the bump-key, original and trying with different bump-keys:
The original is similar enough to your non-bump-key to where snapping it in basically pushes the pins to the shear line, where they catch. If I'm right about this, then you can unlock that any number of ways. You can pull the key out one notch, and then push it in a tiny amount, like .5 - 1.0 millimeters, and then turn the key while pulling it back out, and it will work. Or you can push it in all the way, then pull it out one notch while torqueing it and it will open.
The way this works for my kwikset is that the original key has many deep cuts and one shallow cut at the very end of the key. The general bump keys I made can push the pins to the shear line, where each of them stick and it turns. No bouncing, or sharp hit or newton's laws needed. It's basically a big coincidence that the original key was cut like that.
To confirm that, I tried it with a key that had the front peak cut down for pull-out method and it didn't work at all. Not once, whereas the others had a 100% success rate. Also, I tried it on another kwikset lock that was the opposite: many very shallow cuts and one deep one. No success.
To confirm this is what's happening with your key, you could post a pic of the original next to the "bump-key". If they're similar enough, that would explain it.
If I'm right about this, then this method wouldn't work on all similar locks. Only a few lucky ones. That's a damn shame because when I first got this to work, I was psyched. I got the lock to open with less noise than putting the key in it made.
Posted 06 June 2007 - 06:49 PM