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Just made a key


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#1 jhawk

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Posted 08 April 2007 - 09:22 PM

I just made my first bump key. I can unlock everything I have tried so far, but sometimes it does take quite a while. Is this just me learning how to do it, or could there possible be something wrong with my key?

#2 Customer Support

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Posted 08 April 2007 - 10:30 PM

First... welcome.

Second, feel free to upload a picture of your key so everyone can take a look at it. Easy pic hosting is available at: www.tinypic.com

Usually, once you get your technique down bumping will be alot easier. You'll be able to open locks faster, and with less bumps.... that's what I'd chalk it up to right now (with out seeing your key, that is).

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#3 handyken

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Posted 09 April 2007 - 04:22 AM

you might also be encountering some of the newer locks with tapered top pins that make it more difficult to bump open
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#4 theopratr

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Posted 09 April 2007 - 08:31 AM

Definitely post a picture of your key, and we'll be able to run a full visual diagnostic... but if, as a new bumper, you can get anything open at all, your key sounds like it's pretty high quality. The technique is most of the problem for most people.

That being said, congratulations on your sucessful bumping!

What key did you make, and what kind of lock are you using / how many have you tried it on?

#5 jhawk

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Posted 09 April 2007 - 05:10 PM

Here are some pictures. I think it's just a regular house key. I have been able to unlock a few kwikset deadbolts and a deviant deadbolt and a couple of door handles with this key. I had a few copies made at Lowes as you can tell by the key so I can make changes easily. I actually got them copied after filing the tip and shoulders down, and the copies came out the same. I'm able to do the same locks faster now, but I am not sure if I am already wearing them down. I don't know how long that takes. From the looks of the other pictures I've seen, you might tell me to file my peaks down a little, but I'm not sure. I think the gaps are wide enough. I used a deadbolt that I took apart to help me get the distances correct, but this is the best I have been able to do with a file. Thanks for all the help.

http://i18.tinypic.com/2me7syd

#6 jhawk

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Posted 09 April 2007 - 06:06 PM

Also, I keep hitting my hand, probably just because I am doing this so much. Is there anything you would suggest as a tension rod? And does that work very well. It would be nice to get my hand out of the way.

#7 Customer Support

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Posted 09 April 2007 - 07:32 PM

First... I would suggest making the valleys a bit wider. I believe (read: not 100% sure) that the Kwikset KW1 \ KW10 OEM pins require the valleys be a bit wider.

As far as tension tool... there's been a few pictures of objects people have used - search around ;)

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#8 jhawk

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Posted 09 April 2007 - 09:24 PM

I'll probably just buy a set, I'm tired of filing. I'm just doing this because, for some reason it intrests the heck out of me. If I just buy the 5 key set at bumpkey.us, what are the chances I'll need a key I don't have. The 5 key set seems to cover most locks I've ever seen. Would I regret not getting the larger set? If so, where would I encounter those locks?

#9 theopratr

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Posted 09 April 2007 - 09:26 PM

Your key looks pretty good... as slick suggests, the Kwikset pins are the fat guy in the lock community, so giving them ample room couldn't hurt. Once you have the spacing down, the peaks can be stupid small and still work like magic. Plus, smaller peaks translates to less force that you need to use, which really cuts down on the bruises on your thumbs.

In case you were wondering, the Axxess 68 blank is a KW1, so that's what you're using... it's one of the two most used keys in the US, along with the Schlage SC1.

As for an external tension device... it's quite possible, but I wouldn't recommend it. Permanently installed, it makes your keys cumbersome, and with a temporary tension device on the key, it's awkward. The best advice I think I can render is to tweak your key to require less force to work, and practice your brains out until you stop hitting yourself. The external tension devices are usually things like screws, and they give you far less control over the exacting tension necessary to successfully bump a lock.

#10 jhawk

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Posted 11 April 2007 - 05:57 PM

I filed my peaks way down and widened my gaps quite a bit. It's amazong how much of a difference that makes. I can bump most of the locks I try in about five or less bumps now. Thats rediculous. Thanks for all the help.

#11 Psyfer

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Posted 25 April 2007 - 07:08 PM

I have also made a bump key with a file. It looks OK to me, but I can't bump anything with it. It's a SCHLAGE key. I have not removed the tip and the shoulder, but what I have learned from other internet sources is that you do not need that. Is it really required?

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Thanks

#12 sniper101

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Posted 25 April 2007 - 08:06 PM

Your key looks pretty nice. Filing that tip and shoulder is not neccasery unless you are doing the minimal movement method(use the search function to find out about the 2 methods, pull-out & minimal movement) but if you are using the pull-out method, than there is no modification required. From the close up picture, you may want to file down your last valley (closest to the shoulder) a TINY bit. You may also want to give the first valley (closest to the tip) a stroke or two with your file. You can test out your bump key once you've done that, if you are still having no luck, you could make the slopes of your peaks(the triangular ridges), slightly less, so that they are more or less 45 degrees. Go to www.bumpkey.us, or search on google, for a schlage bumpkey, and if you have your correct spacing, try to imitate the pattern, and size of the peaks, and you should have a usable bumpkey.

#13 Psyfer

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Posted 25 April 2007 - 09:07 PM

I am using the pull out method, and when I release it, I can hear 1 or 2 pins clicking back, so it's not a total failure. I will try filing those two valleys a little more. Thanks for your input!

#14 BLK

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Posted 25 April 2007 - 09:22 PM

http://www.bumpkey.u...-bumping-ke.jpg

that is what a perfectly cut SC1 looks like.
Bump it to the next level.

#15 theopratr

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Posted 25 April 2007 - 09:41 PM

Your peaks are about three times the size they should be, the angle of the peaks is a bit high and your grooves should be wider. You depth is right on the money, but a little deeper never hurt anyone. The spacing is perfect in reference to the FRONT of each of your peaks. Thus, when making your grooves wider and fixing the size and shape of your peaks, do it from the back of each peak. If you file from the front, it's going to foul up the spacing. Best of luck!

#16 Psyfer

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Posted 27 April 2007 - 07:23 PM

Any better??

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Thank you guys so much for your help!

#17 theopratr

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Posted 27 April 2007 - 09:41 PM

You're getting there. Take those peaks and even them out a bit. Don't forget to make everything nice and even. The peaks should be filed down so they make a ramp of sorts, it guarantees success. Curvature is an advanced move, and can easily foul things up.

Your very first groove isn't quite wide enough. I like to cut off a decent portion of the first peak, so that all the pins are getting the same impulse force and nothing is getting shoved above the shearline using pull out. I took one of your pictures and marked in red where you should be cutting down to.

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All things considered, you're well on your way.

#18 Tim

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Posted 20 April 2011 - 09:43 PM

That's great, you did a nice job. For more practice try lock bumping in different types of locks. many locks have different key-ways so sometime its tricky.