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Is there something wrong with my bump key?


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#1 knight_47

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Posted 13 February 2007 - 10:10 PM

I just bought a blank key from home-depot, and filed it down, I can't get it to work, does anyone see any errors in my design:

Posted Image

Thanks :D

#2 theopratr

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Posted 13 February 2007 - 11:59 PM

The peaks on your key are much too large.

Max depth needs to be a tad lower.

You need to make the faces of each groove even an smooth.

And your spacing needs to be exacting. Refer to other photographs of KW1 bump keys already posted on this forum to see what I'm talking about.

#3 knight_47

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Posted 14 February 2007 - 12:11 AM

The peaks on your key are much too large.

Max depth needs to be a tad lower.

You need to make the faces of each groove even an smooth.

And your spacing needs to be exacting. Refer to other photographs of KW1 bump keys already posted on this forum to see what I'm talking about.

Thanks for the reply!

So basically lower the peaks a bit, will do. But what do you mean by 'making the faces of each grove even an smooth'?

And also, when you say the spaces need to be exact, do you mean that each space needs to be equivalent to the other spaces??

BTW, I tried to duplicate this one I found online:

Posted Image

Thanks again.

#4 theopratr

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Posted 14 February 2007 - 12:25 AM

Once you make the peaks much smaller, you also have to angle them so that they are all the same and throwing the pins up, as opposed to just smashing into them. A forty-five degree angle works just fine. And for making the peaks smaller... make them a lot smaller. They need to be small enough such that they will never push the pins above the shear line, which is below the lowest cut.

Posted Image

And the spacing in between each cut needs to match the position of the pins inside the lock. Thus, the grooves need to all be of similar size and of proper separation to make the key work.

Some spacing information:

KWIKSET

SHOULDER TO FIRST CUT: .247''
CENTER TO CENTER: .150''

TITAN -- SHOULDER TO FIRST CUT: .097''
CENTER TO CENTER: .150''

MACS: 4

ROOT BOTTOM MASTER
DEPTH PINS PINS
----- ------ ------
# 1 .329 .172 .023
# 2 .306 .195 .046
# 3 .283 .218 .069
# 4 .260 .241 .092
# 5 .237 .264 .115
# 6 .214 .287 ***
# 7 .191 .310

#5 theopratr

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Posted 14 February 2007 - 12:26 AM

Yeah, the one you found online... ouch. Bad quality control there.

Try to make it look a little more like the one you see above.

#6 knight_47

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Posted 14 February 2007 - 08:03 PM

alright, thanks a lot guys! I will follow your instructions.

thanks again, you guys are awesome :)

#7 knight_47

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Posted 14 February 2007 - 10:30 PM

i have one more question.

my key has 5 ridges, the key above has 7, do I have to start from a new key? or can I still use my 5 ridged key??

#8 theopratr

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Posted 14 February 2007 - 10:35 PM

The key above is my own home brewed variety, I cut extra grooves so that it will (experimentally) work better and on more locks. Your key should only have five cuts in it. The picture was more to show the size and shape of the grooves, as well as the even separation between them. That's what you need to do on your key. :)

#9 knight_47

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Posted 14 February 2007 - 10:41 PM

The key above is my own home brewed variety, I cut extra grooves so that it will (experimentally) work better and on more locks. Your key should only have five cuts in it. The picture was more to show the size and shape of the grooves, as well as the even separation between them. That's what you need to do on your key. :)

awesome, thank you a lot bro.

#10 WOT

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Posted 16 February 2007 - 06:43 PM

The trailing edge is too steep, especially the last cut (the front one). This is the most important thing to fix as it could get stuck in the lock.

#11 ChicagoLocks

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Posted 30 April 2011 - 12:04 AM

Valleys are not filed well and they all are uneven. Steeps must be well so that pins will move over them easily
Sandy