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Lockwood 5 pins


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#1 Zim

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Posted 09 November 2006 - 07:03 PM

Howdy all.

Is there a template about the place for the Lockwood series of deadlocks? I've done a bit of poking around and am I right in assuming that none of the standard US bump keys like Kwikset would work?

Ta.

#2 Customer Support

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Posted 09 November 2006 - 08:21 PM

Zim,

I don't have my books here right now, but I'll take a look later tonight to see exactly what the layout of a Lockwood looks like.

James K. - Lead Support
For Order specific questions please use the 'contact us' link at the top of our store.


#3 Zim

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Posted 09 November 2006 - 11:05 PM

Thanks slickj, it's a tricky one, Lockwoods are the biggest selling lock in Australia by far, but they've used the same well for the last 30 years so despite the fact that this is a 20 year old lock, the well is the same as my brand new one. Here's a pic.

Posted Image

#4 lockman

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Posted 10 November 2006 - 01:55 PM

The design of the lock pictured has been superceded many times over but the cylinder, in common with most manufacturers, remains the same.

I only know of one Americain manufacturer that used the C4 keyway but I have never practised locksmithing in America. They do have a manufacturer Lockwood (USA).

What exactly do you mean by template. If it is information regarding the key perhaps I can help.

You might like to view following. The cylinder is an Australian made, and I add, good quality Lockwood 6 pin. I can personally guarantee that it came straight from an unopened packet and was not - if you discount bumping - interfered with in any way.



#5 lockman

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Posted 10 November 2006 - 02:37 PM

Lockwood (Australia) have a website:

http://www.lockweb.com.au/default.asp

#6 lockman

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Posted 11 November 2006 - 02:39 AM

A query - What do you mean by a "well".

#7 Zim

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Posted 11 November 2006 - 02:50 AM

Hi Lockman.

Thanks for the link to the vid, i'd seen that one in my travels.

The Template i'm referring to is one for the key, with the correct depths for the cuts and the necessary shoulder/tip modifications.

If one already exists, it makes life easier for hand machining, if one doesn't it's not a biggie, just more time and a bit more hit and miss.

#8 Kristic

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Posted 11 November 2006 - 09:55 AM

A query - What do you mean by a "well".


Please do not triple post. Just use the edit feature next time.

#9 Customer Support

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Posted 11 November 2006 - 11:26 AM

Kristic is right... It's always better to simply use the edit feature and go back and edit what you've said... especially if it's right after each other... no harm done though.

Perhaps we also need to lower the amount of time between posts? It's setup at like 45 seconds between posts \ edits which might just be a bit too long.

As far as the thread topic-

Lockman seems to know his .AU (and alot more!) locks pretty damn well.... As I don't have any Lockwood bumpkeys (I've cross referenced my books of available keys) , perhaps he might have one ?

James K. - Lead Support
For Order specific questions please use the 'contact us' link at the top of our store.


#10 lockman

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Posted 11 November 2006 - 01:30 PM

Look to your left - It's a C4 "Bump" key. I still prefer "Linear Pick Key"

Spacing: S:FC = 610. C:C = 397.

Depths: 0=856, 1=818, 2=780, 3=742, 4=704, 5=665, 6=627, 7=589, 8=551, 9=513, 10 or A=475 (Rarely Used)

Increase S - FC by .75mm - 1.0 mm and you wont need to file shoulder or tip. Place .020 mm wire under back of blank (or increase depths by 1/2 cut) and you wont need to file cuts.

Scribe line from shoulder to shoulder and drill 2mm hole through neck of blank. Use to insert tension wire - Vehicle aerial tips from auto recyclers perfect for this. Watch tension when using wire. In addition to obvious uses wire great for avoiding finger taps during winter.

Sorry about "edits" but new to this.

#11 Ridin77

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Posted 12 November 2006 - 01:27 AM

Look to your left - It's a C4 "Bump" key. I still prefer "Linear Pick Key"

Spacing: S - FC = 610. C:C = 397.

Depths: 0=856, 1=818, 2=780, 3=742, 4=704, 5=665, 6=627, 7=589, 8=551, 9=513, 10 or A=475 (Rarely Used)

Increase S - FC by .75mm - 1.0 mm and you wont need to file shoulder or tip. Place .020 mm wire under back of blank (or increase depths by 1/2 cut) and you wont need to file cuts.

Scribe line from shoulder to shoulder and drill 2mm hole through neck of blank. Use to insert tension wire - Vehicle aerial tips from auto recyclers perfect for this. Watch tension when using wire. In addition to obvious uses wire great for avoiding finger taps during winter.

Sorry about "edits" but new to this.


man thats crazy awesome!

what does it all mean tho?- S-FC CC? the measurements is it the depths of the valleys?

#12 lockman

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Posted 12 November 2006 - 02:59 AM

S-FC or S-CFC or S:CFC = Shoulder to centre first cut.

C-C or C:C = Centre to centre.

It's how you cut keys to code. So your C4 (5 Pin) bump key would be:

Spacings: 610 - 397 - 397 - 397 - 397. Or, if you prefer 610, 1007, 1404, 1801, 2198.

Depths: 513 - 513 - 513 - 513 - 513. Note! This is the measurement between back of blank and base of cut.

Which is direct code 99999.

Note! Above does not include my recommendations 1) regarding repositioning shoulder to vary first cut or 2) Lifting blank.

I am just about edited out.

#13 Zim

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Posted 12 November 2006 - 05:09 AM

Thanks Lockman, that's almost as good as having a pre-cut in your hand!

As a question, I have a few Lockwoods that have at least one cut at 475 and a new 355 that has two at that depth. From your experience would it make sense to go to 475 as opposed to 513 or does the extra depth not make a heap of difference?

#14 lockman

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Posted 12 November 2006 - 03:06 PM

man thats crazy awesome!


??????

#15 lockman

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Posted 13 November 2006 - 01:45 AM

From my experience .......... I would check your measurements and then maybe get back to me.