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OFFICIAL THREAD: can't get bump keys to work


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#141 theopratr

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Posted 29 April 2007 - 12:29 AM

Although I agree that they keys look rough around the edges, all may not be lost. If the spacing is at least close, you could probably fix them up yourself by perfecting the peaks and adjusting the depth.

Having some decent keys, preferably from bumpkey dot us, helps a lot.

#142 snafu

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Posted 29 April 2007 - 12:17 PM

i need to file the key down more don't i ?
the ridges are too high?
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#143 snafu

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Posted 29 April 2007 - 01:55 PM

it works. i just wasn't bumping it right

#144 Method

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Posted 29 April 2007 - 03:50 PM

well i dont know if we got kwiksets or whatever in europe, that's why i thought it would be smart to get a set here. so what's actually the rough part and pretty please show it with ms paint on how i should file it :biggrin:. tnx for the reply

#145 theopratr

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Posted 29 April 2007 - 05:53 PM

Snafu - your spacing and depth are right on, but for a more reliable key, you might want to widen the grooves a little bit and reduce the height of the peaks a bit.

#146 theopratr

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Posted 29 April 2007 - 06:07 PM

Method - In the order that you presented your keys:

1.) Peaks are too small to be workable. File yourself a new key from a blank using that one as a guide to the spacing.

2.) Widen the grooves a little bit and fix the angle on the initial peak on the front of the key if you ever want to use it for pull out, although it is clearly modified for minimal movement.

3.) Same as the first one. The peaks are too small the work.

4.) Take a file to the peaks and make them steeper and more pronounced. That should fix it up for you.

5.) Even out the depths and reduce the size of the third peak.

6.) Looks workable.

7.) Widen the grooves a little bit.

8.) Sharpen the peaks.

9.) Sharpen the first peak only.

10.) Remove the half peak on the front of the key.

11.) See 10.

12.) Looks good.

13.) Looks good overall, sharpen the peaks a good deal. Sharpen the first peak in paticular. The spacing might be a little off.

14.) Same key as 13.

15.) Reduce the depth... a lot. You have some cuts on the original key that are a lot deeper than your bump key. Use the existing key as a guide... bring the depths down past the lowest on your key by a little bit. Make the peaks more even and steeper.

16.) Same key as 15.

#147 Method

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Posted 30 April 2007 - 10:39 AM

Thanks a MILLION!

#148 Jurnee

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Posted 01 May 2007 - 03:01 AM

I never imagined what an intriguing subject locksmithing could be. I never really thought about how keys worked and figuring all this out is fascinating. I think my Bumpkey order has probably gotten “lost” at the Canadian custom office - so I'm planning to reorder but will use a US address this time.

However, I find the making of the keys an interesting challenge and since there aren't a lot of practical applications for bumping, it IS mainly about the challenge. In the last week I’ve been trying to make a workable 5 Pin Schlage SC1 bump key. I chose this one because I have a partially transparent “practice lock” which lets me see what is happening with the pins. The key I am modifying is NOT the one that came with the lock, but instead a Schlage housekey that already had several deep cuts. The key I'm working from is the top one and the bottom one is my fourth attempt. I've taken off a little bit from the tip and shoulder. When I insert it all the way in the practice lock it “jumps” back a little - which I read it’s supposed to do.

I may be using the wrong technique to hit the key (I use a Brockhage Bumping Hammer), or have the wrong torque, but what I'm seeing when I watch the pins is that all five are not jumping up to the same height when they've been bumped. I wonder if this is because it's impossible to make all the “ridges” the same height. I've color-coded the valleys and you can see that when I file down the “:red valley” (using a triangular file), I always end up with a very small “ridge”. There's no way around it.

I know this question has been asked but I didn’t find an answer posted. Do all the “ridges” need to be a uniform height? Do the top pins all need to jump up to the same height before you can turn the lock? If the spacing of the ridges is even a little off does it mess everything up?

Thanks for the help! :smile: Posted Image

#149 barry 1943

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Posted 01 May 2007 - 01:11 PM

OK. I have good bump keys have almost 3 sets. Thopr sent me some keys so I know they are good. I have tried bumping a padalock and overall have probably opened it about 8 times out of 2,000. I have a great kwikset key and out of about 2,000 times it has never worked. I took the lock out of the deadbolt and kept trying with no success. Are there some people who never get it. I have about 40 keys (about 10 dupes) but have restricted myself to working with the padlock (M10) and the kwikset (AR1).
I also have tried the kwik on my deadbolt on my front door and no success. I hit hard, soft and medium with a bump hamer, I quick snap it, I put light, medium and hard tension on them. I feel now I am just doing the same thing over and over. H E L P! If there is any. THOPER has helped me a WHOLE bunch and just don't know where to go from here. Anyone want to buy some keys? (I would really like to learn to Bump and then learn to pick) I just feel like I am making no progress and just doing the same thing over and over. THOPER want to move down here and teach me how LOL?:fighting: :brickwall: :confused:
Barry

#150 aikb38

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Posted 07 May 2007 - 02:01 PM

after lookg at snafu's key. i feel like mine should be working but it doesnt seem to be. please let me know if mine looks right, until then ill keep trying.

also, it doesnt matter what you hit it with does it? cause right now im just using a block of wood.

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#151 theopratr

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Posted 07 May 2007 - 03:57 PM

Your peaks are uneven and your depths aren't regular. The spacing is good in relation to the others, but it's set a bit far back. Drop your angles.

Make sure all of your peaks are the same size, the angles are nice and sharp around 45 degrees, and ensure that the angle on all of them are the same. Make your peaks a bit smaller and follow these guidelines, and you should have a working key.

That being said, it does matter what you hit it with. Get yourself a medium-sized screwdriver with a rigid handle. It would be difficult to get a block of wood to move with sufficient velocity.

#152 aikb38

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Posted 07 May 2007 - 05:39 PM

to do this, do i need to start on a new key or do you think i can make this work.

#153 FEX

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Posted 12 May 2007 - 10:27 AM

Hi guys.

Today I´ve made a Bump Key by myself. I´ve used the original key to file it.

I don´t know why it still won´t work. Has my key a bad quality or may I do some mistakes in my technique?

I´ve watched many videos about this topic. After I saw an 11 years old girl opening a lock I thought it can´t be so difficult to use the key.

It would be very cool when anyone could held me to solve my problem.

I´ll post a picture containing the original key and the Bump Key.

http://www.directupl...8Pb8Lju_jpg.htm

#154 theopratr

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Posted 12 May 2007 - 02:58 PM

Widen the grooves and make the angles of the peaks a little steeper. Watch your spacing!

#155 FEX

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Posted 13 May 2007 - 12:02 PM

It's realy strange.

I noticed the tipps of theopratr and used it to improve my key.

But I've still no success in bumping. I tried every bump and every method to get my key working. Nothing happened. :confused:

Have you got any idea what can I do better now.

Here is a photo containing the improved key. I hope you'll find anymore reasons for the failed bumping.

http://www.directupl...f2rq3vZ_jpg.htm

Thank you for your nice tipps. ;)

#156 theopratr

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Posted 13 May 2007 - 09:21 PM

Looking a lot better. See if a few more modifications help:

Posted Image

The third peak is very steep, and the last groove is a little high/uneven. Other than that, it's just small adjustments.

Hope you find success in bumping! Keep practicing with technique. :)

P.S. You don't need to file the parts marked in blue, it's optional... it makes the key not look awkward! The red is approximately what needs filing.

#157 FEX

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Posted 14 May 2007 - 11:22 AM

Hmm my Bump Key still doesn't work. Can be the lock the reason why I can't use it??

I've made an other, smaller key and tried to use it as a key for my bicycle lock. Nothing happened.

Can I use it for this kind of lock at all or is it too special for bumping?
Thanks for your help.

#158 alpha23

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Posted 16 May 2007 - 05:44 PM

have you tried different techniqes? somtimes the "tough guy" method dosen't work. i would also recomend lock/key lube. they sell it at the bumpkey.us store in the "hardware section"

#159 Guest_domina_*

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Posted 25 May 2007 - 11:05 AM

i just filed my secound key, i dont get him working. i think, now hes to deep^^.

it is normal that you are to stupid for filing or to stupid for bumping?

ive a question about how bumping works:
when i hit a key, does it slide into the lock so the pins slide the "triangels" up, so they are acelareted upwards. the shape of the triangels would so be very important (but only from one side).
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or cause i a shockwave into the key, that is transfer to the pins, transfer to the upper pins?
Posted Image
?

would one of the following key work, when not, why?
Posted Image

is here somebody from germany? may he could tell me some tips for german key brands.

ive searched the net for a really detailed tutorial, but i only find somd sketches or videos you cant see so much. i want a tutorials with tones of photos, so you can see every step, with alot of informations "i file this so, so this and this happens, for this and this reason". filing a key, take a picture all 5 mins and tell how it should look and why it should look so. may a big faq would be great...
if someone is a professional and bored, it would be great if he do something.

#160 hackback

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Posted 28 May 2007 - 11:27 PM

I just made this key by grinding down an already cut key. I left the spacing the same as it was, just deepened the valleys. I have had absolutely no success on either of the locks I have that take this key. I also filed the shoulder and tip down a bit. Do the valleys need to be wider?
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