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OFFICIAL THREAD: can't get bump keys to work


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#221 Customer Support

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Posted 26 January 2008 - 09:29 AM

Greetings Rictor,

First -- welcome to the forum.
Some of the sticky threads are most helpful: http://www.bumpkeyfo...read.php?t=1246
http://www.bumpkeyfo...read.php?t=1088
http://www.bumpkeyfo...hread.php?t=929

These three threads are the threads we send to people when they experience difficulties bumping -- the threads explain quite a bit.

Take a look at those three links and and you'll be in better shape!!

James K. - Lead Support
For Order specific questions please use the 'contact us' link at the top of our store.


#222 Rictor

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Posted 26 January 2008 - 11:35 AM

Thanks for the info SlickJ. So you think I should file down the tip and shoulder? Since I'm a newb in these matters, here's a picture of my SC1 so that you wise and learned types can tell me whether it needs to be filed or whether it already is.
(image sharpened to make up for my unsteady hands)

Posted Image

#223 ahazaq2

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Posted 26 January 2008 - 12:59 PM

You most certainly can pull out an SC20 two clicks, but it's a bit trickier than using a dedicated SC1 key, as there is some horizontal wobble possible which can throw off your bump.

If your lock lacks a rear stop plate, as is the case for many Schlage mortise cylinders, you can still use the SC20 in the conventional 1-click fashion. You can check if such a plate exists by seeing if the SC20 key will fit fully into the lock without any resistance. If this is the case, you can bump using 1-click method, as the 2-click method is rather awkward.




If I haven't had a single success in 500+ tries with 1-pin out, 2-pin out, and minimal movement, would you reccommend just buying the SC-1?

#224 Customer Support

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Posted 26 January 2008 - 08:05 PM

If I haven't had a single success in 500+ tries with 1-pin out, 2-pin out, and minimal movement, would you recommend just buying the SC-1?


Either the SC1 or the SC19. Just be warned that the SC19 is a bit thinner than a 'normal' key and caution should be exercised wh
en applying tension.

Thanks for the info SlickJ. So you think I should file down the tip and shoulder? Since I'm a newb in these matters, here's a picture of my SC1 so that you wise and learned types can tell me whether it needs to be filed or whether it already is.
(image sharpened to make up for my unsteady hands)

Posted Image


A tip -- look at the side\tip of the peaks on your key. You'll be able to tell where the pins are hitting. If you don't see any marks, it's possible the key is filed down too much. It also wouldn't hurt to file the valleys a bit deeper and take a bit off the shoulder(s).

Please post your results as we'd like to know!!

James K. - Lead Support
For Order specific questions please use the 'contact us' link at the top of our store.


#225 theopratr

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Posted 28 January 2008 - 07:12 PM

The spacing of the SC1 displayed has the cuts advanced about half a cut too far forward. The final position of the key after bumping will have the bottom pins resting on top of the peaks, making it completely ineffective.

#226 ncpi801

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Posted 03 March 2008 - 02:05 PM

Okay, Kwikisets. Yes I've read a ton on the boards and am still having problems. I'm using the right bump key for the Kwikset deadbolt, and even tried using some of that graphite crap they sell, but to no avail. Let me preface this by saying I work as a bounty hunter, and I purchased bump keys because I figured it would be a quick effective way of gaining entry to a locked residence without having to damage property. This is especially important to me when serving warrants in apartment complexes, because even though I have every right to kick the door, its not the apartment complexes fault a fugitive is hiding inside and I don't feel good about having to damage their property.

Thats the reason Kwikset locks are so important for me to be able to learn how to bump, they account for the majority of locks used in the apartment complexes in my area. I've tried minimal tension and medium tension, tried tapping it with several different objects...but again nothing.

I know there is not too much else that can be "taught" from a message board, so I guess my next question is there anyone in the Indianapolis area that could perhaps teach me in person? Or any other tips for Kwiksets that are not already posted?

#227 Synthead

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Posted 15 March 2008 - 02:24 AM

I'm having a lot of trouble getting my keys to work. I've tried bumping about 7 different locks using the pull-out method and spent about three hours total with all of them. I'm doing something wrong and I know it. I've tried putting tension between just a feather's weight and what would be considered excessive. I've tried several tools, mostly handles of screwdrivers and hammers, and even built my own tool to experiment with made out of a hacksaw blade with heatshrink over it and two large rubber feet stacked on top of each other.

No luck. I've read these forums for hours and looked at dozens of YouTube videos. I've tried every suggestion that I've come across and I just can't do it. I feel pretty retarded about it to be honest cause in actuality, it should be really easy to do.

Any suggestions? :S

#228 vicvelcro

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Posted 17 March 2008 - 07:48 PM

The easiest lock and key to work with, in my opinion, is the kwikset type. I suggest you begin with that, and stick with it until you get the technique. Don't try switching to another lock and another and another. Get the feel of one lock before proceeding to the next more difficult lock.

For the kwikset, you don't need to hit it hard. Just a sharp and high velocity rap. Slight rotational torque to the key. Be patient. Don't give up. When you finally get it, you'll pretty much have it.
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#229 Peteves

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Posted 30 May 2008 - 10:09 AM

I dont know if the picture is clear enough but can anyone tell me if i made my bump key correctly. Incase ive done it that bad that you cant even tell which one is which, the top one is the bump key.

Posted Image

#230 theopratr

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Posted 05 June 2008 - 12:49 PM

Your spacing looks pretty good. The only thing I would suggest is making the peaks themselves a bit smaller.

#231 Peteves

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Posted 06 June 2008 - 12:21 PM

Alright thanks :D I was afraid no one was going to answer here, it seems pretty dead :(

#232 Scott McCord

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Posted 15 June 2008 - 12:09 PM

It just takes time... I just started, I'm getting better than when I first did it. Like everything else the more you do it the better you get, don't give up!:smoker:

#233 Gobias

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Posted 17 August 2008 - 06:30 PM

If you do things right, but it doesn't unlock, when you release the pressure off of the key, should you here the pins drop?
Thanks
ROUS's? I don't believe the exist.

#234 ahazaq2

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Posted 02 September 2008 - 09:10 PM

If you do things right, but it doesn't unlock, when you release the pressure off of the key, should you here the pins drop?
Thanks


I would think so, because they just went from being forced up to dropping down.


My question: Has anyone heard anything about Baldwin locks? They're the ones we use at my house, and they use the Sc-1 key (I know because my house keys are all Sc-1s).

Just wondering, are they bump proof or resistant, or should I just keep trying with my Sc-1? I've tried with SC-20s too.

#235 Bay area guy

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Posted 11 May 2009 - 08:49 PM

Well I'm new to attempting bump keys but have been familiar with the concept for about a year now. However there seems to be a lot of different ways to get them to work on the web so I was wondering which method people have actually gotten to work.

The first is advocated in a few videos that after placing the bump key in the lock, you should first pull it back a "click" (what I believe to mean shift it one pin back) and then strike it so it goes all the way in bumping the lock.
*

The second way is filing the tip and "shoulder" or the key allowing it to slip into the lock ever so slightly more then it would normally and making the springs in the pins push it outwards after you insert it as far in as you can. No bringing it out an extra "click". Simply inserting it, causing the pins to push it back ever so slightly, bump then turn.

Which method do you use (or maybe even a combination of the two)?

Also on a simpler note, have you found success applying pressure throughout hitting it, or attempting to time it to the split second the pins jump up?

Thanks a ton.

#236 BobtheBumper

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Posted 25 August 2009 - 11:30 PM

I cant say im having a huge problem with bumping...Ive known about this technique for a long time, but i just got back into lock picking and such as a hobby. Anyways, im having a bit of a problem with my keys. I make them using a file and an hour of my spare time (lol). My main concern is that the keys dont seem to work all that great. Ive successfuly bumped with my KW1 key, and my M1 key. Here are a few shots i took a little bit ago of my keys, maybe someone can spot some flaws, such as peaks being to high?

http://img195.images...img0002ogi.jpg/
This is actually an ace padlock key. I happened to have an ace padlock so i made a bump key for it. I picked up a blank at my local ace hardware and actually took a longer one, meant for a 5 pin lock figuring it would work just as well for a 4 pin. long story short, i broke the lock after only 3 tries.

http://img7.imagesha...img0003yfu.jpg/
This is my master lock key. I made this one earlier today, ive succesfully bumped it maybe 4/100 tries?

http://img195.images...img0005dzl.jpg/
this is my pride and joy, i actually used a caliper on this guy. I sat down figured out the spacing between pins, measured out how long the valleys should be, and actually calculated the height that the peaks should be at to achieve a relatively perfect 45 degree angle. this one....doesn't work...I can easily bump my cylinder that i had randomly laying around my house, but my house dead bolt has been successfully bumped 3/200 tries. yes i practiced on the cylinder first before i tried my house lock..

anyways, any tips on peak height or spacing would be great. i would like to be able to make a bump key using just a key blank and a caliper, without having a previous key to work off of. Also, if you know exact measurements, tell me. I am a very precise person, kind of a perfectionist.

#237 cantormath

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Posted 26 August 2009 - 08:22 AM

Hey Bobthebumper,

This is the closest Ive seen to what I think you are asking for (PDF file):


I would think with a caliper and that information, you could make any of the mentioned keys.

Hope that helps.

I cant say im having a huge problem with bumping...Ive known about this technique for a long time, but i just got back into lock picking and such as a hobby. Anyways, im having a bit of a problem with my keys. I make them using a file and an hour of my spare time (lol). My main concern is that the keys dont seem to work all that great. Ive successfuly bumped with my KW1 key, and my M1 key. Here are a few shots i took a little bit ago of my keys, maybe someone can spot some flaws, such as peaks being to high?

http://img195.images...img0002ogi.jpg/
This is actually an ace padlock key. I happened to have an ace padlock so i made a bump key for it. I picked up a blank at my local ace hardware and actually took a longer one, meant for a 5 pin lock figuring it would work just as well for a 4 pin. long story short, i broke the lock after only 3 tries.

http://img7.imagesha...img0003yfu.jpg/
This is my master lock key. I made this one earlier today, ive succesfully bumped it maybe 4/100 tries?

http://img195.images...img0005dzl.jpg/
this is my pride and joy, i actually used a caliper on this guy. I sat down figured out the spacing between pins, measured out how long the valleys should be, and actually calculated the height that the peaks should be at to achieve a relatively perfect 45 degree angle. this one....doesn't work...I can easily bump my cylinder that i had randomly laying around my house, but my house dead bolt has been successfully bumped 3/200 tries. yes i practiced on the cylinder first before i tried my house lock..

anyways, any tips on peak height or spacing would be great. i would like to be able to make a bump key using just a key blank and a caliper, without having a previous key to work off of. Also, if you know exact measurements, tell me. I am a very precise person, kind of a perfectionist.


Edited by Customer Support, 26 August 2009 - 10:55 PM.
please only share this type of link through private message


#238 BobtheBumper

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Posted 26 August 2009 - 09:41 PM

now of course my printer is out of ink. anyways, i went to the hardware store and had the KW1 key copied, giving me a flatter valley for the pins to rest. Turns out its working well, on my kwikset cylinder i can get it by the 3rd try almost every time.

#239 Customer Support

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Posted 26 August 2009 - 11:12 PM

We have quite a large list of depth and spacing on our forum. If you're looking for one that's not on the list let us know -- we have a rather large book with many (many!) codes in it.


The spacing on a KW1 key (OEM pins, as has been pointed out) NEED to be wide and deep. And as it has also been pointed out some KW1 keyways are not as wide. This is the reason why we have two types of KW1 keys; a KW1-Narrow and a KW1-Wide.

Take a look at the attached image. You will notice the KW1-N is QUITE a bit more narrow than the KW1-W. I don't have the exact spacing here at this computer, but, if I recall correctly it is about 20% more narrow.

Hope this helps :confused:

Attached Files


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#240 BobtheBumper

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Posted 27 August 2009 - 02:29 PM

Im kind of confused as to what you mean by narrow, the only real difference i see is the peak width and height. and an update, i just copied my KW1 key again, and although im having even more success with my cylinder (like 2/3 times) I can not get my door to bump anymore. i just tried 30 odd times.